A Submariner listing can look perfect - crisp photos, “full set,” even a sharp price - and still leave one uncomfortable question: which Submariner is it, exactly? In the secondary market, the reference number is your fastest route to clarity. It tells you the generation, the materials, the bezel type, and often what you should be checking for before you buy.
This Rolex Submariner reference number guide is written for buyers who want the facts in plain English: what the core references mean, where the common confusion happens, and how to use a reference number to reduce the two biggest risks in pre-owned Rolex shopping - authenticity uncertainty and condition surprises.
What a Submariner reference number really tells you
Rolex reference numbers are not just catalog IDs. For the Submariner, they map to design eras and major technical changes: acrylic to sapphire, aluminum to ceramic, two-line to four-line dials, lug holes to no holes, and the arrival of the “maxi case.” They also separate the classic time-only Submariner from the Submariner Date, which is the single most common point of buyer confusion.The trade-off is that reference numbers do not automatically tell you everything. A single reference can span multiple dial variants, lume types, clasp revisions, and service part changes over time. That is why the reference number is the starting line, not the finish line.
Where to find the reference number (and how sellers misread it)
On modern Submariners, you will typically find the reference number on the paperwork and on the hang tag if present. On many earlier pieces, the reference was engraved between the lugs at 12 o’clock, requiring bracelet removal to view it directly.Misreads happen because older five-digit references can be confused with serial ranges, and because “Submariner” gets used loosely to describe similar-looking models. The most practical approach is to treat the reference number as a verification target. If a listing says 16610, the dial, bezel, crystal, and case profile should all align with what a 16610 is supposed to be.
The Submariner family tree: time-only vs Date
A quick rule that keeps buyers out of trouble: if you want a date window with a Cyclops, you are usually shopping a “Submariner Date” reference (like 16610, 116610LN, 126610LN). If you want the clean no-date look, you are usually in the 14060/14060M/114060/124060 line.It sounds obvious, but many disputes in the resale market start with someone thinking they bought “the classic Submariner” and later realizing the reference actually describes a different configuration than what they intended.
Four-digit references: vintage character and real variability
Four-digit Submariners are where the romance and the risk live. These are prized for slim proportions, acrylic crystals, and dials that can age with genuine individuality. They are also where service history and originality matter most.Reference 5513 (no-date)
The 5513 is one of the most collected vintage Submariners. It is time-only, with an acrylic crystal and a long production run that produced meaningful dial variations.What it means for buyers: pricing can swing dramatically based on dial type, lume condition, matching patina, and whether the watch has been “modernized” with service parts. A 5513 can be a dream piece, but it depends heavily on provenance and how the watch has been maintained.
Reference 1680 (Submariner Date)
The 1680 introduced the date function to the Submariner line. It sits at the center of many vintage collections because it still wears like a vintage watch while adding the date.What it means for buyers: dial variations and the presence of original parts can drive value. Because these are older watches, expect that polishing, replaced hands, bezel inserts, and crystals may be part of the story. None of that is automatically bad, but it should be reflected in price and disclosed clearly.
Five-digit references: the modern classic era
If you want a Submariner that still feels classic but behaves like a modern daily watch, five-digit references are often the sweet spot. Many buyers like them because they deliver sapphire crystals, high durability, and relatively restrained proportions.Reference 14060 and 14060M (no-date)
These are the core “modern no-date” Submariners before the ceramic era. They are beloved for their clean dial and classic case lines.What it means for buyers: the 14060 family has dial text differences depending on era, and many examples have seen routine Rolex service. Service is not a negative - it often means better reliability - but collectors may pay more for original tritium-era components and period-correct details. If you are buying to wear, a well-serviced 14060/14060M can be a very smart choice.
Reference 16610 (Submariner Date)
The 16610 is a cornerstone reference in the pre-owned market. It is a stainless steel Submariner Date with a sapphire crystal and aluminum bezel insert.What it means for buyers: because it is so common, it is also heavily targeted for counterfeiting and part-swapping. The right move is to evaluate the entire watch, not just the dial. Check that the bezel action, bracelet reference, clasp code era, and overall wear pattern make sense together. Also be realistic about condition: many 16610s lived as true daily watches.
References 16613 and 16618 (two-tone and yellow gold Date)
If you are shopping two-tone or full yellow gold in the five-digit era, 16613 (Rolesor) and 16618 (18k yellow gold) are key reference families.What it means for buyers: gold and two-tone pieces are more sensitive to polishing and bracelet stretch. That does not make them poor choices - in fact, many buyers prefer the warmer, more traditional look - but your value retention depends more on case integrity and bracelet condition than it does with steel.
Six-digit references: ceramic bezels and the maxi case
Six-digit Submariners mark a clear design shift. The “maxi case” changed the wrist presence, and the Cerachrom bezel brought a more modern, glossy look with improved scratch resistance. Many buyers prefer these as the most practical everyday Submariners.Reference 114060 (no-date, ceramic)
This is the no-date Submariner with a ceramic bezel and maxi case.What it means for buyers: it wears larger than earlier Submariners despite similar measurements on paper. If your goal is a sleek, vintage-leaning profile, it may feel more square-shouldered. If your goal is modern presence and daily durability, it is hard to argue against.
Reference 116610LN (Submariner Date, ceramic)
The 116610LN is the stainless steel Submariner Date with a black ceramic bezel.What it means for buyers: this reference is often cross-shopped with the newer 126610LN. Differences come down to proportions, bracelet feel, and movement generation. Pricing can also reflect market sentiment more than functional differences. Buy it because you prefer how it wears and looks, not because someone told you one is “the only one to own.”
Reference 116610LV (the green “Hulk”)
The 116610LV is famous for its green dial and green ceramic bezel.What it means for buyers: hype pricing is real, and the spread between an excellent, unpolished example and an average one can be significant. Condition sensitivity is higher because buyers paying a premium tend to demand sharp cases, clean ceramics, and strong sets.
Current generation: refined proportions and updated movements
The newest references brought slightly refined case lines and a movement update. Many buyers describe these as a better-balanced evolution of the ceramic era.Reference 124060 (no-date)
The 124060 is the current stainless steel no-date Submariner.What it means for buyers: it delivers a very “right” Submariner look with modern specs. If you love the no-date aesthetic and want the newest generation, this is the cleanest path.
Reference 126610LN and 126610LV (Date)
The 126610LN is the current black Submariner Date. The 126610LV is the current green bezel variant paired with a black dial.What it means for buyers: these are high-demand models, so secondary pricing can be driven by availability more than intrinsic difference. For buyers, the practical questions are: do you want a date, do you prefer black or green accents, and are you paying for condition and completeness or just speed of acquisition?
How to use a reference number to buy more safely
A reference number is most powerful when you use it to structure your due diligence. Start by confirming that the watch’s physical configuration matches the reference: date vs no-date, bezel type, case style, and material. Then move to the supporting details that tend to reveal problems.Service parts are the big “it depends.” A vintage 5513 with service hands and a service dial may be a wonderful, reliable wear, but it is not the same collectible as a fully original example. On the other hand, a newer 116610LN that has been serviced properly is usually a positive, assuming the work was legitimate and disclosed.
Finally, align the reference with your lifestyle. If you want a daily wear Submariner with minimal fuss, ceramic-era and current models are usually the lower-anxiety choice. If you want character, warm patina, and a piece of Rolex history, four-digit and early five-digit references can be deeply rewarding - but you should expect more variability and more homework.
Authenticity and condition: where a trusted seller matters most
The Submariner is one of the most counterfeited watches in the world, and it is also one of the most “assembled” in the gray market through swapped parts. That is why reference-number knowledge is only half the equation. The other half is buying through a dealer that treats authentication and disclosure as the product, not just the paperwork.If you want to shop by reference number with authentication-forward support, Affordable Swiss Watches Inc. is built around that exact buying behavior, with a catalog that speaks in model names and references and a trust infrastructure designed for secondary-market reality. You can browse inventory at https://www.affordableswisswatchesinc.com.
A well-chosen Submariner should feel simple once it is on your wrist. Use the reference number to make the decision simple before it ever gets there - then let the watch do what it was designed to do: quietly mark time, year after year.